So last night I started placing the fuse panel and outlets in the galley. I marked everything and then started fiddling with the fuse panel. I turned it over and saw this:
And this:
And this:
And this:
I had literally no idea of how to begin connecting my wires to this. There were only tiny solder points to 'connect' to, or so it seamed to me at first look. My logical brain said that there is a + and a - side. The middle must be a ground. Then I started wondering how in the heck you connect to this when the green circuit board is covering the 'inputs.' So, I did what I've done in the past, I decided to ask for guidance on the Teardrops and Tiny Travel Trailer Forum. Within the hour, I had several responses from kind folks who helped me understand the PDF that is on the West Marine website:
It turns out that the two silver screws are where the 'main' lines to the battery go; slight caveat, I will be adding a buss bar to the negative line as a ground. The center pole on the fuse panel is actually where the + wire from each circuit's load goes. After several, very patient, posts, I now understand that this is really pretty simple, but it looked quite complicated to me when I started.
Once again, I am so grateful to the kindness of others on the Teardrops and Tiny Travel Trailer Forum. Their combined wisdom helped me through a pickle!
I measured things out last night and it seems that I will be able to put a 'pass through' in the cabin where all the wires will come through. Thankfully, and by dumb luck, this will all pass below the 'counter top' in the galley. So, everything will be clean and obstruction free.
You can see from the image above how the main feed from the cabin will enter the cabinet. I'll run the wires then to the fuse panel, buss bar (ground) and then over to the battery. I sketched in the 'super simple 120 volt' circuit as well. This is so that if we have shore power, we can plug in and 'charge up' batteries, or even run appliances directly on the 120 volt current. I will be putting one 120 volt power outlet in the cabin too.
So far I like the way this is starting to look. It will be a fairly 'clean' look, while balancing the need to use power when you need it. The only conflict I can see is that the cooler will not be able to be pulled out when the power ports are being used. I think that should be fine as generally we will have the cooler out on the ground when in 'camp.' Having a power port right in that area would allow for a possible 12 volt cooler at some point if we decide that is what we want.
Here is what the cabinets and electrical receptacles will look like on the inside:
I didn't have a good picture of the inside of the cabin. You can see, I'll have two large cupboards connected by a small shelving section. The shelf will be wide enough to fit an iPad for those nights when a campfire isn't possible.
I'm going to use the aluminum shelf to create a 'false' bottom for the cabinets. By doing this, I'll be able to 'hide' the hole to the power center and disguise the electrical connections for the two 12 volt outlets and the one 120 volt outlet. The advantage of planning ahead like this is that I am going to provide an access panel to the wiring under the cabinet in case I have to make any 'future' additions or changes. Also, as you can see from the drawing above, there will be one switch in the center to turn on the 'porch' lights.
After a lot of research, I decided that it is way too complicated for me to try to have the side marker lights turn on with the porch lights. It would have been cool, but way too advanced an electrical install for me. Super Bright LED's was just the place to find four small, cheap LED fixtures. These four fixtures will be placed, one on each corner of the teardrop, just under the frame. I can envision how it will look when I turn them on; it's going to be way cool!
You can see from the images above that they are really tiny, yet very bright. They also have the added benefit of being able to be a 'replacement' bolt. That will make the install simple.
The 'porch lights,' which I've shared before, will be really neat when added to this system.
Again, you can see that they are quite small, but very bright. Again, the ones I'll be using will be red to protect night vision.
I researched the "Super Simple 120 volt Power System" on the TTNT forum and found this excellent, and very simple design:
When combined, the system looks like this:
Or like this:
Mine will be essentially like the one above. Instead of simply 'terminating' at the three plug input, I will 'daisy chain' the three boxes from the surge protected power cord.
For now, I'm pretty happy with the design. It will allow us to connect to shore power when we have the opportunity and when we are at home this will prevent me from having to take 'out' the battery in order to charge it.
Thank you kindly Layne. Are you building a teardrop?
ReplyDeleteTodd
The gorgeous post learned a great deal Thanks greatly! Knighton
ReplyDeletethis great blog .
ReplyDeleteAn electrician has responsible for maintaining the electrical part of industry.
Domestic Electrician in Perth
Electrician Perth, KNP Electrics provide a selection of Electric Providers to Perth & surrounding suburbs. Having a selection of items regarding Industrial or Your House.Electrician Perth, KNP Electrics offer a range of Electrical Services to Perth & surrounding suburbs. With a range of products for Commercial or your Home.
ReplyDeleteNo matter what state you live in, you will have to have a certain number of hours in electrician courses plus a certain length of time working in the electrical field before you qualify to take the state test for master electrician. electrician Austin
ReplyDelete