How to Read Schematics; For the Non-Electrician and More Electrical Designs

So last night I started placing the fuse panel and outlets in the galley.  I marked everything and then started fiddling with the fuse panel.  I turned it over and saw this:

And this:

And this:

 

And this:

 

I had literally no idea of how to begin connecting my wires to this.  There were only tiny solder points to 'connect' to, or so it seamed to me at first look.  My logical brain said that there is a + and a - side.  The middle must be a ground.  Then I started wondering how in the heck you connect to this when the green circuit board is covering the 'inputs.'  So, I did what I've done in the past, I decided to ask for guidance on the Teardrops and Tiny Travel Trailer Forum.   Within the hour, I had several responses from kind folks who helped me understand the PDF that is on the West Marine website:

 It turns out that the two silver screws are where the 'main' lines to the battery go; slight caveat, I will be adding a buss bar to the negative line as a ground.  The center pole on the fuse panel is actually where the + wire from each circuit's load goes.  After several, very patient, posts, I now understand that this is really pretty simple, but it looked quite complicated to me when I started.  

Once again, I am so grateful to the kindness of others on the Teardrops and Tiny Travel Trailer Forum.  Their combined wisdom helped me through a pickle!

I measured things out last night and it seems that I will be able to put a 'pass through' in the cabin where all the wires will come through.  Thankfully, and by dumb luck, this will all pass below the 'counter top' in the galley.  So, everything will be clean and obstruction free.

You can see from the image above how the main feed from the cabin will enter the cabinet.  I'll run the wires then to the fuse panel, buss bar (ground) and then over to the battery.  I sketched in the 'super simple 120 volt' circuit as well.  This is so that if we have shore power, we can plug in and 'charge up' batteries, or even run appliances directly on the 120 volt current.  I will be putting one 120 volt power outlet in the cabin too.

So far I like the way this is starting to look.  It will be a fairly 'clean' look, while balancing the need to use power when you need it.  The only conflict I can see is that the cooler will not be able to be pulled out when the power ports are being used.  I think that should be fine as generally we will have the cooler out on the ground when in 'camp.'  Having a power port right in that area would allow for a possible 12 volt cooler at some point if we decide that is what we want.  

Here is what the cabinets and electrical receptacles will look like on the inside:

 

I didn't have a good picture of the inside of the cabin.  You can see, I'll have two large cupboards connected by a small shelving section.  The shelf will be wide enough to fit an iPad for those nights when a campfire isn't possible.

I'm going to use the aluminum shelf to create a 'false' bottom for the cabinets.  By doing this, I'll be able to 'hide' the hole to the power center and disguise the electrical connections for the two 12 volt outlets and the one 120 volt outlet.  The advantage of planning ahead like this is that I am going to provide an access panel to the wiring under the cabinet in case I have to make any 'future' additions or changes.  Also, as you can see from the drawing above, there will be one switch in the center to turn on the 'porch' lights.  

After a lot of research, I decided that it is way too complicated for me to try to have the side marker lights turn on with the porch lights.  It would have been cool, but way too advanced an electrical install for me.   Super Bright LED's was just the place to find four small, cheap LED fixtures.  These four fixtures will be placed, one on each corner of the teardrop, just under the frame.  I can envision how it will look when I turn them on; it's going to be way cool!

 You can see from the images above that they are really tiny, yet very bright.  They also have the added benefit of being able to be a 'replacement' bolt.  That will make the install simple.

The 'porch lights,' which I've shared before, will be really neat when added to this system.

Again, you can see that they are quite small, but very bright.  Again, the ones I'll be using will be red to protect night vision.

I researched the "Super Simple 120 volt Power System" on the TTNT forum and found this excellent, and very simple design:

When combined, the system looks like this:

Or like this:

Mine will be essentially like the one above.  Instead of simply 'terminating' at the three plug input, I will 'daisy chain' the three boxes from the surge protected power cord.

For now, I'm pretty happy with the design.  It will allow us to connect to shore power when we have the opportunity and when we are at home this will prevent me from having to take 'out' the battery in order to charge it.

Electrical System: Beginning Stages

The internet is an amazing thing!

Through it, I have been connected with like minded individuals who love teardrop campers.  I have found them to be nothing but committed to helping others in the creation of their own teardrop trailers.  One of my greatest obstacles in moving forward with the Carpe Diem is the electrical system.  I've read hundreds of pages of what are called 'build journals.'  These are the records of ordinary people who have built teardrops and have, like me, kept a journal of the process and the step by step progress.

First a little background.

Many individuals enjoy the RV lifestyle. This means, at least to me, to be semi-off grid.  However, most true RV's frequent 'improved' camp sites.  By this, I mean that there is a power source, and often showers, running water, flushing toilets and so on.  Many RV's have both 12 and 120 volt systems and receptacles.  I think this makes sense.  Folks who enjoy RV's tend to enjoy all the comforts of 'home.' There is absolutely nothing wrong with this.  I, however,  prefer to camp off grid as often as I can.  My teardrop is really nothing more than a much sturdier tent!  For this reason, I have decided to install a 12 volt electrical system in the Carpe Diem.  If I find myself at an improved site, I will have an extension cord and circuit breaker on hand to plug in my battery tender and any possible devices that will run on 120 volt power.  Additionally, while not the most efficient use of power, there are many converters that allow one to use 120 volt equipment on 12 volt systems if there is a compelling need.  (I'm thinking at some point, my daughter will want to run a hair dryer when we are in the boonies!)  Careful monitoring of the battery system will be required; a monitor with a digital readout  is essential.

The primary reason I've decided to run only a 12 volt system has to do with simplicity.  After everything I've read, I think this is the best way for me to proceed.  The reason I'm putting so much energy into planning the electrical system is that the wiring will be 'hidden' by the insulation and plywood 'skin.'

One of the most helpful build journals I've come across is The Desert Dawg, built by Joanne.  She has created a website of each step of her build.  The most helpful section, for me, has been her electrical system.  She, like me, has installed only a 12 volt system for similar reasons.

I like the two diagrams you see below which are from her site.

The first shows how she connected her tow vehicle to the battery on the teardrop.  I don't feel comfortable hacking into my leased car's electrical system, so I will probably run a line directly to the battery (with a fuse inline).  If I can find a 'cut off' switch, I will install one in between the two batteries so that I don't accidentally run down my tow vehicle's battery when camped.

The second shows her circuit layout.  I will have essentially the same system, except that I will not have a radio installed.  Reading through her step by step description gave me a much better sense of how to do this.  When I had a couple of very specific questions, I posed them to her and she kindly and thoroughly responded to them.  The kindness of strangers never ceases to surprise and comfort me.  I hope that my 're-build' journal will prove helpful to someone in the future too.

I've ordered a few of my electrical devices.  I don't plan on officially starting on the electrical until the hatch hinge is fully replaced and the cabin is completely water tight.  On that note, I want to remember to apply fresh caulk to all of the seams on the aluminum skin before I add any insulation, etc.  I don't want any leaking to happen once I make the commitment to insulating.

I've also been giving some thought to building into the floor a storage compartment or two.  Joanne has two of these built into hers and I really like the way she finished off the edges in aluminum.  The spare tire could easily fit in such a compartment, as could any emergency gear that I don't necessarily need on a regular basis.  I'll explore that a bit more before I finish the cabin by adding some type of layer to the plywood.  I am fairly sure I'll end up covering the space with linoleum, just to make clean up and maintenance a bit easier.

I will also need to use Rustoleum to care for any rust on the frame of the trailer and to use a water proof undercoating on the plywood 'floor' of the trailer.  Need to figure out a way to get the teardrop up in the air enough for me to work on it.  Harbor Freight sold some steel floor jacks that might work.  A little more research on that is in order.