- Install hitch
- The best deal is our local U-Haul. Using their hitch installation estimator, I am looking at approximately $350
- I will need to drive to Cookeville, TN This is about ten hours.
- When I get there, I'll need to fix the trailer lights and inspect the axle and wheel bearings. If the lights don't work, I may need to use a magnetic set of lights for the short term.
- Will I bring Jack with me?
- Will I stop and visit with Larry, who lives just north of Dayton?
3. Clean and perform 'basic' structural and cosmetic repairs to Teardrop and trailer
- Once I get the Teardrop home, I will carefully clean the interior and exterior.
- When the interior is clean and dry, I will inspect the underside of the trailer and floor. Hopefully, they will be in satisfactory condition and the floor will not need to be replaced. If it does, that sets in motion an entirely different set of circumstances. For the sake of argument, let's say it DOES need to be replaced:
- I will need to unbolt each of the bolts which go through the floor and through the steel frame of the trailer.
- Somehow, the cabin will need to be lifted off of the chassis.
- The floor will need to be replaced with a suitable plywood sheet.
- The plywood sheet will need to be weather proofed using roofing tar. (This might need to be done even if it is not replaced as a way of weatherproofing the bottom.)
- If the cabin is removed, it is conceivably possible to 'finish' the interior of the cabin with 'large' sheet goods. If this is the case, the entire electrical plan would have to be implemented before the cabin could be rejoined to the chassis.
- Lastly, the cabin would be re-attached to the trailer chassis.
- The frame and tongue will need to be cleaned with a wire brush and treated with several coats of Rustoleum black spray paint.
- The inside of the cabin and floor will be completely painted with high gloss exterior house paint. This should change the aesthetics of the interior greatly.
- I will install temporary lighting in the interior and galley. I have several battery operated LED lights that should work quite well for this application.
- This is going to be one of the most challenging elements for me. I will need to solve several problems.
- First I will need to decide whether or not I will integrate AC and DC power into the design.
- Next I will need to think about the 'need' of AC devices like air conditioners, etc. Their inclusion opens up many design obstacles such as ventilation, security and most importantly infrastructure of the electrical system.
- Once I've decided on the above elements, I will need to layout the design. Thankfully, I've been able to study the schematics of many builds on the forum. At this moment I am leaning toward both an AC and DC system; albeit a simple design. I do not think that I will include the AC unit in my design. Here's why:
- I prefer camping in 'primitive' sites; these often do not have power.
- I don't have anything against other campers, but when I 'camp' I prefer to be away from others where I can enjoy the out of doors.
- I don't want to have to use a generator (which is often not allowed in campsites).
- I plan to add the Fantastic Fan to the Teardrop. This works as both a vent and a fan. I am pretty sure that with the addition of a secondary fan in the cabin, I can create enough of a breeze to keep us cool in most conditions.
- Planovet developed an innovative 'power center' that I really like. I want to integrate his ideas into my electrical plan
- I would like to plan ahead for adding a solar panel. I need to research this so that when I do add the solar panel I won't have to undo any of my earlier work. If there is a way to 'add' the cable ahead of time, I would like to do that.
- What specific electrical fixtures will I install?
- Reading lights in the cabin
- Dome light with both red and white LED's
- Porch lights: small colored LED's
- License plate light
- New tail lights
- Marker lights on top of the hatch and along the sides
- Galley Light with both red and white LED's
- Fantastic Fan/Vent; thermostat controlled, rain sensor, etc.
- As briefly mentioned above, the cabin and galley will be insulated. The design elements will also need to include the cabinetry. Again, the forum has been incredibly useful in developing a series of 'must haves' that I want to include in my designs.
- I hope to be able to create the galley cabinets out of birch plywood that I will varnish in order to preserve its gorgeous qualities; in my perfect world, I would have used the same finish for the interior. Due to the constraints of the door width, however, I will probably not be able to finish the interior in large sheets of birch. Instead I'll use regular BCX plywood; in 1/2 or 1/4 inch thickness. This will add about 1 1/2 inches to the interior.
- I am considering adding a layer to the floor too. Not sure if this is a good idea or not.
- Once the electrical design is in place, I will need to install wooden furring strips. These will be adhered to the aluminum with a special adhesive tape.
- The furring strips will then be the ribs that will hold the insulation panels (at least 1" of extruded styrofoam). On top of the foam will be a thin skin of plywood panels. The panels will be attached to the ribs via screws.
9. Interior skin/hull liner installation
- For the cabin, I plan to use a hull liner for the walls. From what I've seen, the marine hull liners will be perfect. It will conform to shapes and will 'cover' any imperfections in either the aluminum or the plywood skin. I am thinking of using a light charcoal colored hull liner.
- I am planning on painting the interior cabinets glossy black. I think the contrast between the gray hull liner and the black cabinets will look wonderful.
- The galley cabinets will be varnished birch plywood with silver polished hardware.
12. Repair aluminum skin
- Replace rivets with smooth covered rivets
- Replace edge and other moldings
- Add drip gutter above doors
- Add diamond plate to front of Teardrop
- Install additional exterior lighting
- Replace hatch handle
13. Lubricate axles and bearings
- Research how to 'pack' the trailer's bearings
- If needed, repair the bearings
14. Add trailer elements
- Weld/bolt stabilizers to rear of trailer
- Weld additional support and diamond plate to the front of the tongue
- Add 'rails' to the side of the tongue diamond plated area
- Add a tongue box
15. Polish aluminum skin
- Sand with 200/400/800 grit
- Polish with yellow and then white pads (see Youtube video on how to do this)
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